Natural cellulosic fibre. A natural "bast" fibre obtained from flax plants, the fibre is often encountered as linen. Recent developments in agronomy and processing mean that supplies of finer quality fibres are becoming available and finding use in blends with other cellulose fibres, both natural and regenerated.. Flax is a strong durable fibre

Linen and in some blends. 100% flax fabrics are generally sold as linen. There has been an increase in the use of flax blends when advantage is taken of the strength of the flax fibres. Currently the fibres find very little application within the corporate clothing field, however woven blends are available in a range of weights.

Needs bleaching before dyeing, treat as cellulosic. Flax naturally has an off-white colour and will therefore require bleaching prior to any dyeing. Hydrogen peroxide bleaching as preparation of the fibre irrespective of the ultimate shade as this preparation route removes most of the extraneous matter in the fibre facilitating better levelling during the dyeing process. The natural colour of flax is often too deep to respond completely to the hydrogen peroxide treatment and a two stage sodium hypochlorite bleach then the hydrogen peroxide bleach is required. This is especially the case when light colours are required.

Flax, like other natural cellulosic fibres, can be dyed with reactive dyes or in some cases direct dyes. If the clothes are to be used for work wear where more durable dyes are likely to be required, reactive dyes, vat dyes or sulphur dyes would be the selection of choice.

Shrink resistant. Good dimensional stability, fibres tend to have higher strength when wet than dry.

Flax fabrics have good resistance to piling

Typically 12%

Can be laundered at high temperatures, prone to creasing. Flax can withstand laundering at high temperatures, these should only be used for heavily soiled garments. Flax fabrics are prone to becoming creased during washing and this will requires the use of a hot (steam) iron during pressing. Dyes have a tendency to bleed and suitable separation during washing should be encouraged. Chlorine based bleaches can be safely used on cotton, although dyed fabric should use a colour safe bleach. Tumble-drying requires a high temperature setting. Like cotton, flax can be treated with a crease resistant finish which can improve the "easy care" nature of the fabrics. Treated fabrics should be laundered in accordance to instructions as these may recommend lower heat settings during drying and ironing.

Suits. Heavy weight fabrics such as suiting, lightweight fabrics for shirting are not readily available.

Can be disposed of using all end of life opportunities. A natural cellulose fibre that can be handled in the same way as other cellulose fibres. The fabrics may potentially be reused or re-manufactured and can also be used as a source of cellulose feedstock for regenerated cellulose products. Being naturally biodegradable, the fibres can be composted if required.

Ryszard Kozlowski, PhD,
Institute of Natural Fibres,
ul. Wojska Polskiego 71b,
60630 Poznan,
Poland.